
My Opinions
This are my opinions. Read them before you plan for a long ride.
Additudes
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The only true constant in life is permanent change.
If that makes you uncomfortable—congratulations, you’re paying attention. -
Plan all you want.
Life will nod politely, then do something entirely different. -
People believe almost anything.
Especially the things that feel good, sound easy, or confirm what they already wanted to be true. -
People will do anything—really, anything—to avoid fear and pain.
Including pretending they don’t exist. -
Life is 90% attitude and 10% circumstances.
And most people waste all their energy arguing with the 10%. -
The experts agreed it couldn’t be done.
Then someone came along who didn’t know that—and did it anyway.
Because things always seem impossible…
right up until the moment they aren’t. -
“No” is not an option.
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“Doesn’t work” doesn’t exist.
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There is no turning back.
Feeding your horse on trail
Our idea of “performance” is shaped almost entirely by our own experience—and our own comfort zone.
Look at modern long-distance hiking guides and you’ll see recommended daily distances of 10–15 miles. Sounds reasonable. Sensible. Civilized.
Now fast-forward backwards for a moment.
In a report about the first mountain guides in Switzerland, Reinhard Messner noted that around 1870 a normal daily hiking distance was about 40 miles. Not in ultralight trail runners, mind you—but in heavy, iron-clad boots, carrying roughly 60 pounds of rope. Perspective is a wonderful (and slightly uncomfortable) thing.
Our horses, meanwhile, have not changed much at all.
A robust horse is still perfectly capable of walking 20 miles at night while grazing, and then covering another 30 miles during the day—nearly 50 miles total.
The average rider, however, feels heroically accomplished after 20 miles in the saddle.
This difference becomes important when we talk about feeding.
We usually calculate feed based on what a horse needs to maintain basic bodily functions—about 1–2% of its healthy body weight. Then we add extra for “work.”
But here’s the catch: what we feel is hard work and what the horse experiences as hard work are not the same thing.
For the horse, “working hard” does not mean 15 miles of relaxed trail riding on flat ground.
Real effort usually starts at 20–30 miles, depending on terrain, footing, elevation, and conditions and the weight it has to carry.
That’s why there is no reason to double your horse’s rations unless it has actually done 20 miles or more in demanding terrain.
When people talk about “performance feed,” they often mean fancy labels: fragrant, oat-free, designer blends. These products are excellent at increasing profits for the manufacturer.
They are usually unnecessary, often counterproductive, and in the worst cases, outright harmful.
The best performance feed for horses is still the simplest one: oats or barley.
They provide an excellent combination of amino acids and proteins that the horse’s body can actually use.
Let’s look at the math.
If an 800-pound horse covers 30 miles in a day, it needs roughly 12 pounds of hay to replace the calories it has burned.
That’s about 150% of normal maintenance requirements.
To eat 12 pounds of hay, the horse needs around 480 minutes—that’s 8 hours of chewing.
To give the horse more time to rest, we can substitute, for example, 2 pounds of oats, which saves about 4 pounds of hay, and roughly 1⅓ hours of eating time.
With 4 pounds of oats, the time saved is closer to 2½ hours.
There is, of course, a trade-off.
Oats and barley are converted into sugar relatively quickly, meaning their energy is released fast and fades sooner.
Hay, on the other hand, provides long-lasting energy.
Think of it as the difference between a chocolate bar and a proper serving of carbs, oil, or fat.
That’s why I let the horses graze or eat hay first, and then give the oats on top of the hay or directly on the ground.
The idea is simple: the horse eats hay or grass together with the oats, slowing things down and keeping the system stable.
Make sure your horse gets the chance to graze every 2–4 hours for 20–30 minutes, so its stomach always has something to work on.
At night, we fence the horses into an area of about 120 × 120 feet for up to three horses.
If grazing is poor, we simply double that space.
Our mustangs here in the U.S. have no trouble maintaining their weight this way for over three months on the trail.
The only supplement we regularly give on long trail rides—especially when the horses have been sweating heavily—is salt or mineral feed.
We dissolve it in water and pour it over the hay.
And no, it does not need to come from the Himalayas.
Old School Horsemanship
If horse is too fat......ride it more
If horse is too skinny ………….. feed it more
If horse looks good………. feed it the same
If the saddle doesn't fit... try a different one
If the saddle fits………..use it
If horse is sick……. call the vet
If horse is well...... leave it alone and don't go looking for trouble
If horse is too cold……..give it more hay
If horse is too warm…….. cool it down
If the horse is sweating and warm... clip it
If horse isn't sweating and doing little work….. don't clip it
Horse needs to be shod……shoe the horse
Horse doesn't need to be shod….. leave it until it does need it
Horses ears are forward.... you have treats or it likes you
Horses ears are back……. It doesn't like you,
Horses teeth are bared.... it's hangry and is going to eat you.
How heavy is too heavy?
Your trail horse may—and should—start a long ride with a small reserve of body fat: moderate to moderately fleshy (body condition score 5–6).
Let’s be clear about what that means.
You should not see the ribs at a glance, but you should still be able to feel them easily.
There should be no excess fat on the neck, shoulders, or rump.
Starting in this condition gives the horse the best possible chance of staying healthy over a long journey.
And when we say long journey, we are not talking about a weekend ride.
We are talking about distances of up to 600 miles or more, completed in one continuous trip over four weeks or longer
(see Training the Trail Horse – Physical Training).
Most horses I see in Colorado and Europe are overfed (fat) and underworked (not fit).
A properly trained horse—one whose abdominal and lower abdominal muscles can lift and arch the back for extended periods—can carry a rider without damage.
A useful sign of correct engagement is this:
The hind hooves usually touch the ground in front of the front hooves.
If your horse is fit, older than five years, and in the condition described above, it can safely carry around 20% of its own body weight on its back.
That includes you, the saddle, and all equipment.
Experience shows that after 6–8 hours of riding, it is usually the rider who becomes tired first.
At that point, the rider stops riding correctly—and the horse pays the price.
If your horse weighs 800–1,000 pounds, that means a load of 160–200 pounds.
Twenty percent.
Simple math—but not simple responsibility.
Every additional pound requires more attention, longer training, and better management if you want your horse to stay sound for years to come.
That’s why in Europe we regularly walk on foot for about 10 minutes per hour, mostly downhill.
We change gaits often—walk, trot, canter—and we stop for breaks before the horse becomes overly tired, not after.
Annotation
If your horse is overweight (body condition score 7–8), it cannot safely carry 20% of its body weight.
In fact, it must carry less, because it is already burdened with its own excess weight.
Blanketing... or not...

Minus 11°F 15.1.24
Blanketing horses can seriously disrupt their entire system of thermal regulation.
The horse then tries to warm the uncovered parts of the body—the head and neck, belly, and legs—while the covered areas begin to overheat.
A horse cannot selectively heat or cool individual body parts the way we imagine.
Once you cover the horse, you interfere with the whole system.
And once you interfere with that system, the door is open to problems.
The natural protection horses have against cold is so effective that even an Arabian Thoroughbred, and certainly any healthy horse, can stay warm at temperatures well below 32°F.
The horse is one of the animals best adapted to a wide range of temperatures, thanks to its exceptionally efficient natural insulation.
What do people do when they get cold?
They put on a sweater.
So the horse gets one too.
What people forget is that nature already gave the horse a winter coat.
“But my horse is shivering!”
Unlike us—who are already hypothermic when we start to shiver—horses can generate heat by micro-vibrations in individual muscle groups.
They can warm specific muscles independently.
Unfortunately, we have lost that ability.
Your horse is not hypothermic.
It is warming itself—without needing your blanket.
Of course, there are exceptions.
But these horses are usually not used on trail rides, because they are old, unhealthy, or clipped.
If my horse is completely sweaty in cold temperatures, I will use a light blanket to help him dry and get rid of moisture. That’s a practical solution, not a lifestyle choice.
If I am on the trail, it has been raining all day at 32°F, and my horse has no proper wind protection, I will blanket him with my military poncho.
That said, the better solution would be shelter—and a mountain of hay.
My Criollo, bred in Argentina—where winter temperatures are around 50°F—stands in a pasture in Colorado at –31°F, in a snowstorm, with 10 cm of snow on its back.
He does this by choice, even though there is an open shed available that he has no interest in using.
Comfort temperature ranges
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Horse and cow: 40°F – 15°F
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Human: 77°F – 64°F
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So here’s the question:
Why are cows not covered…
but horses are?
The answer: cows don't have a best friend that rides them. The stay heatlthy even without a blanket.




