You and the Trail...
You and the Tail
This page outlines the requirements placed on rider, horse, and equipment for a successful and responsible trail ride. A successful trail ride is not defined by distance, destination, or difficulty.
It is defined by how well rider, horse, and equipment work together over time. The trail exposes gaps quickly. Preparation, judgement, and responsibility matter more than ambition.
Why Trail Riding?
Horses were practically born for trail riding—well, most of them. Let’s skip the broncos and those on the extreme ends of the spectrum (no offense, Falabella and Shire horses). For the average equine, a good trail ride is like a stroll in the park. Historically, humans used horses to get from A to B long before asking them to waltz in sandboxes or chase cows for sport. Trail riding? It’s their bread and butter!
Mental preparation:
Horses must be experienced on trails and be 6-20 years old. They must be able to ford streams and cross bridges without difficulty. Your horse must be able to stand while tied and should be calm and socially acceptable. The important thing is that you learn to trust your horse and give it a sense of security.
Remember: your horse is capable of crossing the Rockies by himself. Regardless of whether it has ever been there or not, because it is a horse.
Leading:
In order for your horse to fulfill its task, you have to give it space and let it do its job. The horse has four feet and two eyes on its head. So it is quite capable of watching its own feet, and it is twice as good as you at climbing. After all, your horse has four legs; you only have two.
Remember: I watch my feet and my horse watches his... and I give it up to 3 yards of space.
That means: it is my job to pay attention to where I put my feet, and it is the horse's job to manage its feet. To do that, your lead rope must be long enough, 3-4 yards, for your horse to see what's going on. If you hop down the path 3 feet in front of the horse, it doesn't have much time to think about where it puts its hooves. So give it space and make sure it stays off your feet. A distance between you and your horse of 2-3 yards is optimal. No matter what, it must not approach you any closer than 1yard or nudge you in the back. If you have the opportunity to practice descending stairs with your horse, then do so. Going up and down. Going down is more difficult for your horse. So, going down is what you need to practice, making sure it comes down slowly. step by step.
Make sure that it stays on the path and does not try to pass you on the right or left. It is therefore essential that YOU give it security and keep your distance. You can already practice this now, from the ground, in the round pen, with pylons or poles, where it simply goes through the slalom course 3 yards behind you. Practice with it, going in front of you, and you following him. Your horse must stop, stand still, and move forward on command (voice, rope signal, or body language).
your horses fitness:
Both rider and horse must be sufficiently fit to master a 25-mile day trip. Your horse is sufficiently fit if you can trot or jog for 20 minutes in flat terrain, and your horse can return to a resting pulse rate of twice the normal resting pulse rate within 5 minutes and breathe calmly again. At high altitudes, your horse will still need more time to calm down, but this is less of a problem for him than it is for you.
Your Personal Fitness:
is another issue. You should be able to walk a couple of miles down a steep trail, and yes, you should be able to get back on your horse, using a tree stump or embankment. But most of all, you need to be able to ride 25 miles, without killing yourself, cause even if you plan for 15 miles, plans can change, and you need to be up to it.
Use the tail as a drag lift.
Here it my personal secret: All my horses have learned to go up the mountain in front of me. I hold on to the tail at the very back and let myself be pulled up. I lean my weight against the tail. On the flat, I would stand in a supine position. Since it's uphill, I walk like on the flat, and my horse pulls me up. You can also practice this at home. Get someone to lead your horse (2-3 m distance) and hold on to your horse's tail. Lean back until your arms are fully extended, and on command, you both start walking. You stay in the back position and let the horse pull you across the square. Double lunge or driving reins help if you want to work alone. On steep trails, we do it the same way, with the small difference that you also lead the horse that is walking behind you, and you really walk uphill.
Trail Riding Speed:
We mainly ride at a walk. Whenever possible, we will trot and walk for about 5-10 minutes every hour. When going downhill and on steep sections, the horses will be led by the lead rope and rope halter. We will stop to eat about every 2 hours for about 15-20 minutes. Lunch will be a light meal that we bring along.
Information about you and your horse:
Please let us know if you are afraid of heights or have vertigo. If you have allergies or other medical conditions, please communicate this to a trusted participant or the guide.
Horses that kick need a red ribbon in their tailhear. Please also inform the other riders about this.
walking and leading your horse on the trail:
The horses are not led by the bit. You must be able to unhook your rein with a snap and attach it to the rope halter. If possible, you have a 12-foot single rein with two snaps, one at each end. If you unhook one end, you have a 12-foot lead rope. This avoids having to carry a lead rope and reins with you.
Hoof protection:
Suitable hoof protection is necessary. Duplos extra (green) with or without small studs are recommended. Shoes must fit and be tried and tested. (Take a rasp with you.) (If the hoof shoes do not stay on, you may have to quit the ride, or get Duplos nailed on. The shoeing must be relatively new.
Equipment horse:
Intact and tested equipment (suitable saddle with a large saddle pad). Backcinch, if possible (only possible with a Western saddle) or crupper. On the Trail Rides, we need a breastplate. Provisions, drink, and rain protection on the horse. 12 feet lead rope and rope halter (Parelly type), spare horseshoe (Duplos green), saddle bags on the front for lunch, drink holder, rain protection must be mountable on the horse. The saddle pad must be large enough so that the bags do not touch the horse's fur. The horses need the usual vaccination protection. If desired, a rain blanket for the horse. Mineral and cereal (barley or oats) for the horse for the whole tour.
Saddle: A well-fitting and tested saddle is a prerequisite for every ride. A saddle pad or an additional thin wool blanket under the pad reduces friction. The saddle pad or the blanket should be large enough to prevent the rear saddle bags from lying directly on the skin.
Bridle:
Bitless bridle or snaffle, it's up to the individual and their preference. The rule here is: a good fit and a tried and tested product are a must for every bridle. We ride bitless, because it is the easiest on the horse.
Saddle bags:
Small front saddle bags, larger rear saddle bags. Also, take them with you during training and define chafe marks. Leather belts or Straps to tie your Cantle Roll. These are available in different lengths and at affordable prices in every outdoor shop. Rain cover for the horse. Fly protection, emergency horseshoe/spare horseshoe, feed and water bag – folding bucket or feed bucket
.
Personal equipment:
Mountain-compatible hiking boots, Shoes/Boots: Sturdy, ankle-high trekking shoes are particularly suitable; in any case, you should be able to walk well in them, even in rough terrain. If you like, you can pack a pair of lighter shoes for the evenings, such as trekking sandals. Thin and thick socks.spare shoes for you, blister bandage, rain gear, hat, comfortable riding clothes, gloves, slippers, Underwear: Breathable functional underwear with flat seams, depending on the season; at least three sets of changeable clothes.mini personal hygiene bag, flashlight, knife, ID, cell phone, camera, spare batteries. You will need a packed lunch for the first day.
Rain gear:
A suitable raincoat covers horse, rider, and luggage extensively. Double S Rain Slicker.
Headgear:
Helmet or wide-brimmed hat; a helmet that protects against head injuries and sunstroke.
Outerwear:
A layered system is recommended so that you can put on or take off something depending on the changing Daytime temperatures. For example, functional underwear, a T-shirt, a shirt, a thin fleece pullover. Softshell jacket, water- and wind-resistant outdoor jacket. Many trail riders also swear by vests with lots of pockets for smaller items such as hoof picks, pocket knives, money, etc.
Gloves/bandana/sunglasses/pocket knife/multitool, Hoof pick, and small brush (magic brush is sufficient)
A Sigg Water bottle or a small plastic bottle. Emergency first-aid kit for horse and rider. Medication that I take regularly or need often. Vet Papers and Brand Inspector Documents, if you cross State lines.
Hygiene tissues/toilet paper – sun cream – insect repellent and a small shovel.
And more:
Wallet – bank card or credit card – lighter/matches – cell phone – watch – camera – memory card – charging cable – power bank, LED lamp (small and bright)Plastic bags (for used underwear, horse manure, rubbish, etc.)PLEASE label items.